I miss take out. I really do. Take yesterday for example. My daily feeding schedule was highly planned
out—mango and oatmeal in the morning.
Popcorn for lunch. My last 100
francs of bread with something for dinner. Or something like that.
Instead. . . a quarter of my mango was funky. It was a small one anyway. Then I broke out a new box of oatmeal. I’d just added peanut butter and hot water
when I realized there was a mass exodus of little bugs from my bowl. So much for my new box of oatmeal. I went
ahead and started to eat what I’d made, bugs and all. But it tasted funky. My cats are happy
though. So I had to have bread for
breakfast. I got really hungry later, so for
lunch I went and got sardines and ate them with bread and this horseradish
sauce I brought from the States last year.
And I made popcorn. All was well
until about 1930 when I realized I was getting hungry again. I wasn’t motivated enough to make fake
macaroni and cheese with spaghetti. I seriously considered just taking 2 Benedryl and passing out till this morning, but I knew I would be biking into Kouka. So I settled on couscous with horseradish
sauce. It seriously sounded really
good. Then I went over to hang out at
Kodjo’s house for a bit for I ate. His
sister moved in with them after having family problems and sells booze from a
basket outside her door. Like a little
bar. A lot of my friends go there every
evening to hang out, which suits Kodjo just fine since he’s one of the most extroverted
people I’ve ever met. Anyway, I went
over, had a flacon of Pastis, made fun of my friend who was talking about how
cold it was, smoked one of my last cigars, played with the puppies,
contemplated feeding myself, etc. Then
Kodjo was like “so Mama Joseph made pate, want some?” He calls his wife Mama - the name of her latest
son. I knew that he’d just butchered a pig a couple days ago to sell, and so
that the pate would include pork sauce, but I was so hungry, and buzzed from
Pastis, that I didn’t care. The sauce was really good. Then I went home and Adha gave me some pineapple—that
I’d bought them in the marche on Sunday—and some peanuts. Food crisis averted for the day.
Speaking of food, a lady selling apples just stopped by Bry’s house. They are like bad granny smith apples, but
beggars cant be choosers.
Every morning I bike to Kouka now, I see classes of school kids out
planting corn under their teachers’ supervision. Not all teachers are on a government
salary—many schools around here only have one government teacher. All the others are “volunteer.” Which means
they live on fees from the pupils’ families and they get their students to
plant their fields so that they can feed themselves.
Since it finally started raining regularly, people here are farming in
earnest. Ghanians came over with their
tractors and 3-disc harrows to plow fields.
This is kind of funny to watch, at least for a farm kid like myself,
from a distance. The tractor guys get
paid by the field, so they go as fast as they can. They rev their tractors like race cars and
pound through fields with their spotters hanging on for dear life. Petite was a zombie on Sunday cause he was up
all night supervising the plowing of his fields. It saves a lot of time because it tears out
the shrubby weeds that sprout early in the growing season, and it makes building
corn rows easier. I just try to stay out
of the way.
When Togolese butcher an animal, like a pig or a cow, they go all out. There is no such thing as a "cut" of meat here. They get knives, machetes, and axes and chop the whole thing, bones, entrails, head, into roughly equally sized pieces that they sell for 50 francs a piece. The trick to buying meat is to dig in the pile for chunks that have characteristics that you like-- like amount of skin/fat/gristle/bone, etc. Or you can buy a hunk of stomach for your sauce and not have to worry about it.
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